Lugo…the Setmeravelles.

Lugo is a province full of interesting, beautiful places. As much as I loved the capital, the villages and province itself also feature beautiful, hidden treasures. I finally stepped foot in this amazing place for the first time in July 2017.  It was hard to choose just seven, and my interest in the Camino de Santiago may have influenced this list. Lugo es una provincia llena de sitios interesantes y bonitos. Me encantó la capital, pero los pueblos y la provincia también tienen joyas escondidas que son preciosas. Por fin, en julio 2017 viajé a este sitio increíble por la primera vez. Era difícil elegir solo siete meravelles, y puede ser que mi interés en el Camino de Santiago haya influido la lista. 

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Praia de As Catedrais (de Augas Santas)

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Perhaps one of the most famous beaches in Spain amongst the Spanish is the Praia de As Catedrais, or Beach of the Cathedrals. The national monument, officially named “Praia de Augas Santos” (Holy Waters) in Galician, attracts many tourists for the beautiful rock formations visible during low tide. In the summer months (July, August and September), you must have a (free) ticket to enter. Quizás una de las playas más famosas de España (al menos con los españoles) es la Praia de As Catedrais, o la Playa de las Catedrales. El monumento nacional, con nombre oficial “Praia de Augas Santos (agus santos) en gallego, atrae a muchos turistas por sus formaciones de roca preciosas que solo se puede ver durante marea baja. En los meses de verano (julio, agosto y septiembre), tienes que sacar un permiso (gratis) con antelación para entrar. 

Ribadeo

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Located near the famous beach is the tourist town of 10,023 residents Ribadeo. It’s a stop on the Camino del Norte de Santiago and the first village in Galicia (or last, if you’re leaving the autonomous region.)  It has beautiful views of the estatuary and is a charming town to visit. Ubicado cerca de la playa famosa es el pueblo turístico de Ribadeo. Tiene 10.023 habitantes y es una parada en el Camino del Norte de Santiago y el primer pueblo en Galicia (o el último si estás saliendo de la comunidad autónoma.) Tiene vistas bonitas de la ría y es un pueblo de encanto. 

Lugo’s Walls

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The province capital, population 98,560, is most famous for its city walls that date back to the third century. They completely enclose the city and surround an area of 2 kilometres. The wall is between 8 and 12 metres high. It is twinned with the Great Wall of China and has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2000. La capital de la provincia, población 98.560, es conocido por sus murallas de la ciudad que eran construidas en el Siglo III. Están construidos alrededor la ciudad por completo y de una área de 2 kilómetros. La muralla tiene entre 8 y 12 metros de altura. Su gemelo es la Gran Muralla de China y ha sido UNESCO Patrimonio de la Humanidad desde 2000. 

Castro de Fazouro (Yet to discover)

The Castro de Fazouro are ruins of  fort on the mar near the city of Foz. It was excavated in the 1960s and dates back to between the 1st and 3rd centuries. El Castro de Fazouro es un castro en ruinas por el mar cerca de la ciudad de Fox. Era excavado en los años 1960 y era construido entre los Siglos I y III.

Sarria (Yet to discover)

Sarria is a town of 13,700 inhabitants that is famous with pilgrims of the French Camino de Santiago as it is the closest starting point to Santiago to obtain a Compostela. There is also a river with a Roman bridge and an old pilgrim hospital. Sarria es un pueblo de 13.700 habitantes que es famoso con peregrinos del Camino de Santiago Francés como es el punto más cerca a Santiago para empezar y conseguir una Compostela. También hay un río con un puente romano y un hospital de peregrinos antiguo. 

Monforte de Lemos (Yet to discover)

Located in a valley between the Minho and Sil Rivers, Monforte de Lemos is a town of nearly 20,000 residents that has been around since the Bronze Age. In addition to a medieval castle and medieval walls, there is the Nosa Señora de Antiga’s school that comes complete with paintings by El Greco, among others. Situado en un valle entre los rios Minho y Sil, Monforte de Lemos es un pueblo de casí 20.000 habitantes que ha sido inhabitado desde la Edad del Bronce. En adición a un castillo medieval y murallas medievales, hay la escuela de Nosa Señora de Antiga que tiene obras de El Greco y otros. 

Viveiro (Yet to discover)

Viveiro is a town of 16,000 residents on the Cantabrian Sea. It still has a small part of a wall built to protect residents from the plague. It’s location on the sea makes it a popular tourist destination in the summer. Viveiro es un pueblo de 16.000 habitantes en el Mar Cantábrico. Todavía hay partes de una muralla que fue construida para proteger el pueblo de la peste. Su situación por el mar significa que es un sitio popular en el verano para turismo. 

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36 Hours in Lugo.

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Located in Galicia in the northwest of Spain, Lugo is a fascinating province capital with a lot to offer visitors…especially tapas. Ubicado en Galicia en el noroeste de España, Lugo es una capital de provincia fascinante con mucho ofrecer a los visitantes…especialmente tapas. 

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Lugo is a city of 98,560 people and is most famous for its UNESCO World Heritage Roman Walls. It’s the only city in the world to have completely intact Roman Walls. The walls are 10-15 metres high (33-49 feet) and the walk around the town on top of the walls is 2.1 km. There are 71 towers with 10 gates. Lugo es una ciudad de 98.560 personas y es conocido por sus murallas romanas que son UNESCO Patrimonio de la Humanidad. Es la única ciudad del mundo para tener murallas que son completas e intactas. Las murallas tienen 10-15 metros de altura y la ruta por arriba de las murallas es 2,1 km. Hay 71 torres con 10 puertas. 

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There is also a Roman bridge over the Minho River worth checking out. It’s along the Camino Primitivo. I was so jealous of the pilgrims I saw as I was ending my Camino. También hay un puente romano que cruce el Río Minho que vale la pena ver. Es parte del Camino Primitivo. Me daban envidia los peregrinos que vi como ya había acabado mi Camino por ahora. 

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I arrived to the beautiful city around 8 pm on a Tuesday in July. My AirBNB was fantastic, although a bit far from the centre of town. It was definitely walkable though. Llegué a la ciudad bonita sobre las 8 en un martes de julio. Mi AirBNB era genial, aunque estaba un poco lejos del centro de la ciudad. No daba ningún problema en caminar. 

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I had dinner cheaply in the Casco Antiguo. They give you huge tapas for free with your drink order (in the morning, most places do it even with your coffee). Tapas are not well-known in the north of Spain, so it was an unexpected treat. Cené en un sitio bueno, bonito y barato por el Casco Antiguo. Te dan tapas grandes gratis con una bebida (por la mañana, la mayoría de los sitios te la dan con tu café.) El norte de España no es conocido por sus tapas, y era un trato que no esperaba. 

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Wednesday morning I awoke to the bad news that I had lost my job for unknown reasons. This put a damper on the visit, but I tried to raise my head up high and enjoy the town and not worry about what I was going to do. El miércoles por la mañana, me desperté a las malas noticias que he perdido mi trabajo para razones desconocidos. Me estropeó la visita, pero intenté ser positivo y olvidarmelo para disfrutar la ciudad y no preocuparme del futuro. 

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I had breakfast and found my way to the bridge, getting lost (somewhat on purpose) in a nearby park. When I arrived to the bridge, I was amazed by its beauty. I’ve read about the Minho River, and I was finally seeing it for myself. I later stopped at the café next door before heading back up to town. Desayuné y encontré el puente, aunque me perdí (quizás no era sin querer) en un parque cercano. Cuando llegué al puente, me fascinó su belleza. He leído mucho del Minho y por fin estaba viendolo en directo. Después, paré en el café a lado antes de volver a la ciudad.

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I went to the Cathedral of Lugo, which was built in the 12th and 13th centuries. It was partially destroyed in the 1755 Lisbon earthquake. It was quite the impressive visit. Fui a la Catedral de Lugo, que fue construido en los siglos XII y XIII. Una parte era destruido en el seísmo de Lisboa en 1755. Era una visita impresionante. 

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It was time to explore the walls. I walked around the city on top of the walls, loving every moment. Ya era hora de explorar las murallas. Caminé por la ciudad arriba de las murallas, y me encantó cada momento. 

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I had lunch in the Casco Viejo and went to rest a bit. After the siesta, I returned to town and visited the Lugo Provincial Museum, which was free. It was more an art museum than a history museum, but I can’t complain about the price. Comí en el Casco Viejo y fui a descansar un rato. Después de la siesta, volví al Casco Viejo y fui al Museo Provincial de Lugo, que era gratis. Era más un museo de arte que un museo de historia, pero no me puedo quejar del precio. 

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I watched the sunset from the walls. Vi la puesta de sol desde las murallas. 

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The next day I wandered around town some more, and the rain came back. I caught a BlaBlCar to Gijón, and on Friday another one to Bilbao, and on Sunday went back to Valencia into the Great Unknown. El día siguiente deambulé por la ciudad más, y la lluvia volvió. Cogí un BlaBlaCar a Gijón y viernes cogí otro hasta Bilbao, y el domingo volví a Valencia al Gran Desconocido. 

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Praia de As Catedrais

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I first heard about the Playa de las Catedrales (Praia de As Catedrais in Galician, the Beach of the Cathedrals in English) back in 2012. I was immediately fascinated by it and wanted to go. I originally planned my November holiday around seeing it that year, but ended up staying in Asturias and exploring it more. Me dijeron sobre la Playa de las Catedrales (Praia de As Catedrais en gallego) en 2012. Me fascinó desde el principio y quería ir cuanto antes. Mi plan para mis vacaciones del puente de Noviembre en 2012 era visitar la Playa, pero al final me quedé en Asturias para conocer Asturias mejor.

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Five years later, I finally got to go. In fact, I planned my Camino del Norte to end in Ribadeo to be able to visit the beach of the holy waters. (The official name is Praia de Augas Santas). Cinco años después, por fin pude ir. De hecho, planifiqué mi Camino del Norte para terminar en Ribadeo para poder visitar la Playa de Aguas Santas (el nombre oficial es Praia de Augas Santas). 

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When they told me about the beach, it reminded me of the famous Bay of Fundy beach in New Brunswick, Canada. During high tide, it appears to be a small, rocky beach. However, at low tide, you can see beautiful rock formations, or “cathedrals”, that every year attract more and more visitors. In recent years, during the summer, the beach can only be visited if you have a reservation, which is free and can be obtained at the Xunta de Galicia web site for the beach. Cuando me explicaron la playa, me recordaba de la playa de la Bahía de Fundy en Nuevo Brunswick, Canadá. Durante la marea alta, parece ser una playa rocosa pequeña, pero durante marea baja, se puede ver formaciones de roca bonitas, o “catedrales”, que cada año atrae más y más visitantes. En años recientes, durante el verano, solo se puede visitar la playa si tienes una autorización, que es gratis y se puede conseguir en el sitio web de la Xunta de Galicia de la playa

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My original plan was to hike from Ribadeo, which is about 10 kilometres away. I was still in Camino mode, and it would have been a nice Route #29 for the year. However, after finding breakfast and a cash machine, it was a late start and the actual route is 16 kilometres. I wasn’t going to make it to the beach on time by hiking. El plan original era para caminar desde Ribadeo, que está a unos 10 kilómetros de la playa. Todavía estaba en modo-Camino, y sería una bonita Ruta #29 para el año. Sin embargo, después de encontrar desayuno y un cajero automático, ya era tarde y la ruta actual es 16 kilómetros. No iba a llegar a tiempo por caminar. 

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There is a bus that leaves from the tourist office in the main square of Ribadeo. It was 2.50 € return/roundtrip in 2017. You can also arrive to a nearby village, Esteiro, on the FEVE train and walk the kilometre or so to the beach. There is also parking for cars. The bus timetable depends on the low tide. The timetable is posted outside the tourist office and is available online too. Hay un autóbus que sale desde la oficina de turismo en la plaza principal de Ribadeo. Costaba 2,50€ ida vuelta en 2017. También puedes ir a un pueblo cercano, Esteiro, en el tren de FEVE y caminar a la playa. Es sobre un kilómetro. También hay un parking para coches. El horario de autobuses depende en la marea baja. Pone el horario enfrente de la oficina de turismo y también está disponible en internet. 

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There was a long queue of tourists waiting to get in. I was glad to see they were checking the authorizations. I’m not sure how many are issued a day. It seemed there were hundreds of tourists that day. It was difficult to take photos of the more beautiful formations. Había una cola larga de turistas esperando entrar la playa. Me alegré que estuvieran comprando las autorizaciones. No sé cuantas dan cada día. Me parecía que había cientos de turistas este día. Era difícil hacer fotos de las formaciones más bonitas. 

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I wandered around the beach for about an hour and a half, enjoying the formations and meditating with the waves. It was amazing, although I’m not so sure it was worth five years of anticipation amazing.  Hype tends to build things up in our mind. Paseaba por la playa durante sobre una hora y media, disfrutando las formaciones y meditando con las olas. Era impresionante, aunque no sé si merecía cinco años de espera para verla. La anticipación suele hacer las cosas más grandes. 

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I had an expensive relaxing café con leche (2€) at the terrace café above before buying a Camino necklace and wandering around the cliffs tops. We had about two hours and 15 minutes to explore. Me tomé un relaxing café con leche caro (2€) en la terraza del bar antes de comprarme un collar del Camino y deambular por los acantilados. En total tuvimos sobre dos horas y 15 minutos para explorar la playa. 

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I had lunch in Ribadeo and later caught the long, long (nearly two hour) bus ride to the capital Lugo, where my holiday would end. I didn’t know that the bad news of losing my summer job would be coming the following day. Ignorance is bliss! Comí en Ribadeo y después cogí el bastante largo (casí dos horas) autóbus a Lugo Capital, donde iba a terminar mis vacaciones. No sabía que me estaba esperando la mala noticia de perder mi trabajo de verano el día siguiente. La felicidad es ignorancia. 

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(Whenever I return to the Camino, I am definitely going to hike that 16 km route from Ribadeo as my initiation!)  (Cuando vuelva al Camino, ¡voy a empezar con la ruta de 16 kilómetros desde Ribadeo para iniciarme otra vez!)

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Camino de Santiago (Camino del Norte) Etapa 27. Tapia de Casariego-Ribadeo.

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It was my last day of the Camino for this etapa, and I was a bit sad to see it end. I was also quite a bit happy about an extremely short day and the ability to sleep in a bit. I didn’t leave the albergue until about 8 in the morning. I wasn’t the last person to leave, either. Era mi último día del Camino para esta etapa, y estaba algo triste para acabarlo. También estaba contento de tener un día muy corto y poder despertarme más tarde. No salí del albergue hasta sobre las 8 de la mañana, y tampoco era la última persona de ir. 

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Most of the town was closed, but the hotel was just opening up for breakfast. Being a hotel in this touristic town meant it cost a bit more, but it wasn’t too bad compared to some places I’ve seen. 3€ for tostada and café con leche. Ah well. Casí todo en el pueblo estaba cerrado, pero había un hotel-restaurante que estaba abriéndose para desayuno. Como era un hotel en un pueblo turístico, era más caro. No era demasiado mal en comparación con algunos sitios, pero 3€ para una tostada y café con leche es bastante caro en España.

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It wasn’t too difficult to find my way out of town. The skies were threatening that day, and I would be rained on a lot throughout the morning. I really wanted to be alone, which meant I found all kinds of peregrinos along the way. I ducked in a cornfield, up a street by a house, and in the best place, to a beach 500 metros from the Camino. I didn’t have far to go, so it wasn’t too much of a detour. No era muy difícil encontrar el Camino y salir del pueblo. Los cielos amenazaban este día, y me llovía bastante este día. Quería estar solo, que quiere decir que encontré muchos peregrinos por todo el camino. Me escondí en un campo de maíz, subí una calle por una casa, y en el mejor lugar, una playa a 500 metros del Camino. No tenía que caminar mucho en general este día, y no era un desavío grande.

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I later ran into a man just out for a day-hike from Tapia to Ribadeo and not doing the Camino. I’m not sure why he went on such a rainy day, but to each their own. Me crucé con un hombre que solo estaba caminando de Tapia a Ribadeo y no estaba haciendo el camino. No sé porque estaba haciendo una ruta en un día tan lluvioso, pero bueno, hay de todo. 

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There was an isolated church before a beautiful beach. I stopped at the church and admired the views. It would’ve been nicer on a sunnier day, that’s for sure. Había una iglesia aislada justo antes de una playa bonita. Paré en la iglesia para disfrutar de las vistas. Habría sido más precioso si fuera un día más asoleado. 

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Later, on the other side of a beach, there was a hotel-bar open so I could have a café and wait out the rain a bit. It stopped, and I went on my way. Only a few kilometres left to cross the Galicia border. Después, en el otro lado de la playa, había un hotel-bar abierto para tomar un café y esperar de la lluvia dejar de caer. Paró, y volví a caminar. Solo me quedaban unos kilómetros para cruzar la frontera con Galicia. 

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I was excited to cross the border. I hadn’t been to Galicia since 2009, my first full-year in Spain, and Lugo was one of the three provinces I hadn’t been to. I’ve also been wanting to travel to Ribadeo for 5 years. I wish I had planned my Camino a bit better so I would’ve been able to visit my reason for Ribadeo, but hindsight is 20-20. Me emocioné cruzar la frontera, como no había estado en Galicia desde 2009, mi primer año viviendo en España. Lugo era una de las tres provincias que no había estado. También llevaba cinco años deseando viajar a Ribadeo. Ojalá planificara el Camino mejor para haber podido visitar la razón de mi parada en Ribadeo, pero siempre se ve mejor mirando hacía atrás. 

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I just wanted to cross the border between autonomous communities and reach the pensión and set down the heavy back. Of course, right before Figueras, the last village in Asturias, the rain started up again. Solo quería cruzar la frontera entre las comunidades autónomas e ir a la pensión y dejar la mochila pesada. Claro, justo antes de Figueras, el último pueblo de Asturias, la lluvia empezó de nuevo.

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The bridge across the Ría Ribadeo is long and high. It offers beautiful views, but I was a bit nervous crossing it. Although the footpath is well divided from the motorway, it’s a bit scary to have a wide river on one side and cars whizzing by on the other side. Like so many other peregrinos, I made it across. El puente sobre la Ría Ribadeo es largo y alto. Ofrece vistas preciosas, pero también me daba miedo cruzarlo. Aunque la parte de peatones está bien separado desde la autovía, da miedo estar entre una ría grande y coches corriendo a alta velocidad. Como tantos peregrinos antes de mi, llegué al otro lado. 

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The pensión was near the bridge and is named for it (Ponte dos Santos). It was nice to have my own room for the night. The albergue of Ribadeo only has room for 12, and I was nervous about not having a place for the night when I had to be in Ribadeo, so I reserved ahead. La pensión estaba cerca del puente (de hecho el puente da nombre a la pensión, Ponte dos Santos). Estaba bien tener mi propia habitación para la noche. El albergue de Ribadeo solo tiene sitio para 12 personas, y estaba nervioso de no tener alojomiento cuando tenía que estar en Ribadeo, entonces hice una reserva en la pensión. 

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Ribadeo has a population of 10,023 residents and is famous for its nearby beaches (more later). It’s a small, quaint village that has been on my radar for a while. It was nice to explore the streets without hurry. I stopped at the Parador (one day I will have money to stay at one) and rested as much as I could. Ribadeo tiene una población de 10.023 habitantes y es famoso para sus playas cercanas (a continuación). Es un pueblo pequeño pero pintoresco que había querido visitar durante mucho tiempo. Me gustaba deambular las calles sin prisa. Paré en el Parador (un día cuando tenga dinero voy a alojarme una noche en un Parador) y descansé tanto como posible. 

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My Camino was over for the moment, but I still had places to see. Mi Camino había acabado por ahora, pero todavía me quedaban cosas que ver. 

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Hike #28/40 of 2017
Date/Fecha: 24 de julio de 2017
Kilometres hiked:  13 km
Mountain/Route: Camino del Norte Tapia de Casariego-Ribadeo
Difficulty: Easy/Fácil

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Galician Christmas

Two years ago, I wrote about some of the different Spanish customs. As I haven’t travelled much to Galicia, I was completely unaware about their traditions. This calls for investigation! Ya hace dos años, escribí de algunas tradiciones españolas de Navidad. Como no he viajado mucho por Galicia, no sabía nada de sus tradiciones. Por eso…¡he de investigar! 

Before Santa Claus’s influence arrived to Spain as Papá Noel, Galicia had their own Apaldador, somewhat similar to the Basque Olentzero.  The Apaldador is a giant miner who lives in the mountains. Every Christmas, he visits the villages and touches the belly of children to see if they were well fed and leaves them with a handful of roasted nuts. He wears green, smokes a pipe and has a beret. The tradition is becoming popular once again. Antes de la influencia de Papá Noel en España, Galicia tenía su propio Apaldador, algo parecido al Olentzero vasco. O Apaldador es un carbonero y gigante. Vive en las montañas. Todas las Navidades visita los pueblos y toca la barriga de los niños para saber si se alimentan bien y les deja un puñado de castañas asadas. Se vista en verde, fuma una pipa y lleva una boina. La tradición está haciéndose popular otra vez. 

The Cepo de Nadal/Tizón de Nadal: It is also traditional to burn a log slowly, which represents the birth of a new sun (new year?) and whose ashes are thrown on the fire afterwards to protect from lightning. El Cepo de Nadal o Tizón es otra tradición gallega. Se quema un tronco lentamente, que representa el nacimiento de un año nuevo. Las cenizas se echan al fuego para proteger la casa de rayos. 

Galicia is a region that I hope to spend a lot of time next year when I finish el Camino del Norte. I’ll be able to write more authentically once I know the region better! Galicia es una región donde espero poder pasar mucho tiempo el año que viene cuando acabe el Camino del Norte. Ya podré escribir más auténticamente cuando conozca la zona mejor. 

No matter where you are in the world right now, Happy Holidays (Merry Christmas, Happy Hanukkah, Happy Winter Solstice, and Happy New Year!), ¡Felices fiestas! Bones festes! Boas festas! Zorionak eta urte berri on! No importa donde estás en estas fechas, os deseo Felicies fiestas, bones festes, boas festas, zorionak eta urte berri on.

May your 2017 be better than 2016! ¡Qué vuestro 2017 sea mejor que vuestro 2016!

Thank you, gracias y graças to the following sources of information/a los siguentes fuentes de información.

Gastronomía de Galicia
La Morada del Búho

Pontevedra. Mondays and most days in the rain.

LisboaDia3 284In 2006, a Spanish friend sent me a photo of a bridge in Galicia via MSN messenger, telling me that Galicia had really cool summers. I had the oppertunity to learn Spanish from a professor  from Galicia who was one of the nicest people ever, and the bridge was one of coolest ones I had ever seen. I made it my desktop photo. I think it is still the desktop photo as that computer died, but that is neither here nor there.

Three years later, as I was taking the train from Vigo to Santiago de Compostela in A Coruña, I was looking at the incredible beauty before me and feeling that somehow it looked familiar when it suddenly dawned to me that the train was going by the bridge my friend had sent to me.

And with my luck, I wasn’t able to take a “real” picture of it.

Galicia, along with the Islas Canarias, remains one of my least traveled comunidades autónomas. I am going to have to change that, but even with living in Bilbao, Galicia is just as far as it was when I lived in Madrid. As I am slowly but surely walking my way to Galicia, I have more or less planned to stay exploring the comunidad whenever I reach Santiago. Still, I am dying to go back there once I have recovered from the “This seriously is less rainy than Galicia or anywhere?” Bilbao.  Maybe if I’d stop going to Barcelona (three times this academic year…)

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My time in Pontevedra was all too brief, a few mere hours. I saw Tui from the train from Oporto that Easter Holiday of 2009, the town that greets visitors to Spain. Vigo, featured in the Spanish film Los lunes al sol (Mondays in the Sun), is a rainy fisherman and industrial city of about 294,000. I didn’t have the time to explore as I would, and I was planning to go back (but that was the disaster trip where my bank card disappeared). I hesitated writing about it, but I have officially been there. Whenever I return, and I *will* return, I’ll return to writing about it. But I gotta give Galicia some love, as the Gallegos are some of the most friendly people I have encountered (Unless they enter politics.)

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Vigo

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Vigo is the largest city in Galicia with 294,000 people and the 14th largest metropolitan area in Spain with nearly 482,000 folks calling the greater Vigo area home. It has an attractive Casco Vello (Viejo or Old Town), the Castro fortress and ruins, a port, beaches, museums and churches. The 2002 film Los lunes al sol was filmed here, and the Bay of Vigo appears in Jules Verne’s 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea.

Rías Baixas

The “Lower Rivers” are a series of four rivers (estatuaries to be exact) that begin on the coast. The northern most is just south of Finisterre and the southern one borders Portugal. This area is rich in marine life and attracts many tourists. There are many islands in the mouths of them river, making them a bit calmer than the Rías Altas and the “Costa de Muerte”, the Death Coast. They form the only national park in Galicia, Parque Nacional Marítimo Terrestre das Illas Atlánticas de Galicia.

Islas Cíes 

The Cíes Islands are the aforementioned islands. The British newspaper The Guardian chose the Rodas Beach on the island of Monteagudo as the best beach in the world in 2007. The islands have a lot of cliffs and caves and a ton of spectacular scenery. There is a ferry from Vigo to the Islands. I want to go, now.

La Casa do Barón

One of my goals, once I’ve finished the Camino de Santiago del Norte and have visited each of Spain’s provinces, is to visit all the “paradores” of Spain. The Paradores are old castles converted into hotels. The Casa do Barón is located in Pontevedra capital in the heart of the casco antiguo. The restaurant there offers typical Galician dishes. Pontevedra capital boasts 82,000 people by the way.

Baiona

Baiona, which constantly comes up when I’m checking out Bla Bla Car to Bayonne (Bayona in Spanish), goes from 11,000 habitants in the winter to over 40,000 in the summer, thanks to the tourists, the medieval centre and the proximity to Vigo and the Rias Baixas. The photos are amazing.

O Grove 

Another place along the Rías Baixas, O Grove is a peninsula with beaches and views. There are churches, sculptures and many protected areas.

Combarro

A “Bien de Interés Cultural”, Combarro is another fishermen’s village located 7 kilometres from Pontevedra capital. The Rias Baixas dominates the Seven Wonders (Set Meravelles) of the province. What can I say? I’m a sucker for coastal places and have a lot to explore whenever I get to return to Galicia.

A Coruña. Yes, Virginia, a place rainier than Euskadi.

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I’ve hesitated writing about Galicia until now because of my hazy memory and my desire to return to do the SetMeravelles justice. I have only been there once, for three days, six years ago. I keep hoping for a return visit to spend more time and visit the two provinces I didn’t make it too, but things keep coming up. It’s not that I don’t love Galicia, as I do. However, Galicia is in the northwest corner of Spain, chock full of winding roads. Even in Bilbao on the Cantabrian Coast, I’m a full 5-6 hours away, and the world is big. I know I’m on a personal pilgrimage to Santiago, but that’s going to take a while in itself.

On my first Semana Santa in Spain, I went to Portugal and took a train north to Galicia (and caught Ryan Air back to Madrid to catch the bus back to Linares in Jaén, where I was living at the time.) After a too brief stop in Vigo, I went ahead to Santiago de Compostela where I was staying. It was raining, of course. I checked into a non-pilgrim hostel and saw tourist shops full of Camino de Santiago stuff. I was in awe of the pilgrims arriving to town and made the decision to do the Camino one day myself. (Six days later, I’ve done…40 kilometres! Go me. I’m picking it back up in March or April whenever the monsoon stops). I walked around the Cathedral of St. James in awe. And while the city is small for its fame (only 95,000 people), it didn’t feel small. I kept walking through the small streets, loving the gallego I saw everywhere. Due to my aversion to all things related to seafood, I did not try pulpo (octopus), the speciality of Galicia. (In fact, I’m going to have a nightmare about an octopus attacking me now due to having typed this up).

I did try a piece of tarta de Santiago, though. And two more on my next two days there.

I digress. The next morning, when I was getting ready to go to A Coruña (the province capital. Santiago is the capital of the autonomous community), I discovered that my debit card was missing. I remember getting money out from the BBVA next door to the hostel, but I don’t remember what I did with it after that. And to make matters worse, it was Semana Santa, which meant all the banks were closed. I frantically emailed my mom and took off to A Coruña. It was raining. A lot. And I remember beautiful scenery and listening to Wynonna’s Revelation, but I was so freaked about not having much money that I didn’t really enjoy the city. The rain stopped for the return to Santiago, and I ended up going out for drinks with a guy from the hostel.

The third day was spent in plan tranquilo, seeing one of the coolest staircases in the Museo de Pobo Galego (Musuem of the Galician people) and heading out to the airport to catch a much-delayed flight to Madrid.

I am dying to return to Galicia, and even more dying to be out on the most famous road to get there later this year.

Set Meravelles

Torre de Hércules 

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No, this is not the Hércules Tower! However, in my fuzzy memory, when I later read about the Hércules Tower, I assumed this was it and that I had visited it. I still haven’t actually been there. Kicking myself. I blame the stress from the missing debit card that trip. You live and you learn, like Alanis Morissette sings. The actual Roman Torre de Hércules is a lighthouse dating back to the second century AD. It is UNESCO World Heritage site.

Catedral de Santiago y su camino

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The Casco Viejo (Old Quarter) of Santiago is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Cathedral is one of the most important in Spain, and it’s on good authority that the remains of the apostle James are buried here. In 813, legend has it that a bright light lead a shepherd here, and the shepherd told the bishop who told King Alfonso II of Oviedo, who had the Cathedral built in that spot. For that reason, over the centuries, many people made a pilgrimage across Spain to the cathedral. The original cathedral was destroyed by a Moorish leader, Al-Mansur Ibn Abi Aamar. Alfonso VI of Castilla had the current one constructed in the 11th century.

Praza do Obradoiro

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The main plaza of Santiago is amazing in its own right. Located next to the Catedral de Santiago, the Praza houses a hotel that was originally an albergue for pilgrims founded by Catholic Kings Ferdinand and Isabel, the ayuntamiento (City Hall) and a school.

Museo de Pobo Galego

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In the convent of San Domingo lies the Museum of the Galician People (Museo de Pobo Galego). It has artifacts through Galicia history and tells the story of the Galicians. It also has some of the coolest staircases ever, just as twisty and windy as the Galician roads.

Muxía (to be discovered)

A Galician village of 6000 people, Muxía is part of the Costa de Muerte, where many shipwrecks happened over the years. It is also the end of the Camino de Santiago for those pilgrims wanting to make it to the coast. (It is close to Muxía where the ending scene of The Way was filmed.) The 2002 oil spill from The Prestige unfortunately took place near here, but it quickly recovered, thankfully.

Finisterre (to be discovered)

Finisterre means “The End of the World”, and until certain people “discovered” lands that were already discovered, it was believed to be the very end of the world. The cape boasts a lighthouse and several beaches, and along with Muxía, is the true end of the Camino de Santiago.

Betanzos (to be discovered)

Betanzos is a small city of 14,000 habitants located near the Atlantic Ocean. It has one of the most famous Casco Viejos of Galicia. The walls still have 3 of their 4 original gates, and there are many palaces and a clock tower to visit.

Galicia, I want to go back soon!

Also, a bit of “galego” for anyone interested. “Como estás hoxe?”

Also, a bit of a note to say that I am travelling today (unfortuantely not to Galicia) but will reply to any comments and likes and typo corrections as soon as possible, just be patient! The destination will be revealed soon…