Camino de Santiago (Camino de Invierno). Chantada a Rodeiro. 25.4 +2.5 km (27.9 km)

Another morning on the Camino had arrived. I awoke early, and I had two cafés con leche before leaving the town of Chantada, population 8083, both because it wasn’t light out yet and because I knew I wouldn’t be coming across many places that served coffee along the way. The one place had really good tostada. Otra mañana del Camino ya ha llegado. Me desperté pronto, y me tomé dos cafés con leche antes de salir del pueblo de Chantada, población 8083. Todavía no había amanecido y sabía que no iba a encontrar muchos sitios para tomar un café por el camino del Camino.

In the first grouping of houses (can’t call them even aldeas as they are that small), I ran into three dogs and got to play. Later I’d meet another three dogs when I greeted the cows. En la primera población (ni puedo llamarla “aldea” porque era tan pequeña), crucé con tres perros y jugué con ellos. Luego, conocí a tres perros más cuando saludé a las vacas.

I stopped at the Taberna O Peto in Penasillás for a second breakfast, where the town cat kept trying to knock the table over to get my tostada con tomate. It didn’t work. I outsmarted the cat. Paré en la Taberna O Peto en Penasillás para un segundo desayuno, y el gato del pueblo quería hacer caer la mesa para comer mi tostada con tomate. No lo consiguió. Yo era más listo que el gato.

I came across a lot of people I hadn’t seen before. I’m not sure if they were doing the Camino or day hikes. They were all congregating around the Ermita de Nuestra Señora de O Faro. I climbed part of the way up there, saw how many people were there and decided that the views weren’t worth it. It’s the “techo” (ceiling or rooftop) of the Camino de Invierno. I needed my solitude on this Camino. I don’t really regret it writing this months later. Crucé con mucha gente que no había visto antes. No sabía si estaba haciendo el Camino o solo una excursión. Todos estaban por la Ermita de Nuestra Señora de O Faro. Subí casi hasta arriba, vi que había muchísima gente, y decedí que las vistas no merecián la pena. Es conocido como “el techo del Camino de Invierno”. Necistaba mi soledad en este Camino. Ya unos meses después, no lo lamento para nada.

After the techo del Invierno, the Camino followed a lot of the wind turbines. I thought of how Quijote would insist on fighting the windmills of the 21st Century. Después del techo del Invierno, el Camino sigió unas turbinas. Pensé en como el Quijote insistiría en luchar los molinos del Siglo XX.

I thought my pensión was in the town of Rodeiro (in fact, Google Maps insisted it was). However, I was wrong, and Google sent me to a similarly named place that was closed. I didn’t see any place open for food in the town of 2317, having missed the albergue. So I continued on another 2.5 km along the road to my Hostal, A Latiza, which ended up being a really good roadside hotel and restaurant. The food was incredible, as was the service. I had the Galician food roxos. Pensaba que la pensión donde iba a dormir estaba en el centro de Rodeiro (y el Google Maps insistió que sí). No obstante, no estaba correcto, y Google me había mandado a un lugar con un nombre parecido que estaba cerrado. No vi ningún sitio abierto para comida en el pueblo de 2317. Ya había pasado el albergue. Entonces, siguí unos 2.5 km más por carretera hasta mi hostal, A Latiza. Al final, era un hotel y restaurante de carretera genial. La comida estaba riquísima, como el servicio. Probé roxos, una especialidad gallega.

I did miss the Panadería Jesús where the Spanish Royals apparently get their bread delivered from. Ah well. Perdí la Panadería Jesús donde los Borbones, la familia real, compra su pan. Pero bueno.

I sat outside drinking Aquarius de Naranja, and the owner showed me the shortcut to get back to the Camino the next day as to avoid backtracking a kilometro. I was grateful. Me sentí en la terraza y tomé un Aquarius de Naranja. El dueño me mostró el atajo para volver al Camino el próximo día para evitar hacer un kilómetro de más. Estaba muy agradecido.

I rested up as the following day would be my last on the Camino de Invierno. Descansé. El próximo día iba a ser mi último en el Camino de Invierno.

A Continuación…


2 thoughts on “Camino de Santiago (Camino de Invierno). Chantada a Rodeiro. 25.4 +2.5 km (27.9 km)

  1. I understand the need for solitude on trips, although for me, it’s a bit different. I don’t mind the presence of people while I’m out and about. However, in my accommodations, I prefer absolute privacy. Dormitory-style sleeping quarters and shared washrooms are not my thing, and while I’ve done them in the past, generally I’ll shell out what money is necessary for my own solitary room with its own ensuite bathroom. (Unless accommodation prices are really crazy $$$$$$$.)

    Liked by 1 person

    • I think for me, I am so lost in my own world, that the sight of anyone while hiking shakes me suddenly from that world, which generates anxiety.

      I can’t do the albergues…I was always excessively anxious when I did them, but in this post Covid world we find ourselves in where everyone pretends it doesn’t exist as it rages on worse than ever…I want my own space. The extra money is worth less anxiety. And definitely cheaper than Long Covid expenses…


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