Camino de Santiago (Camino de Invierno). Etapa 6. Monforte de Lemos-Chantada. 30.4 Km.

Another day on the Camino had arrived. I woke up, had breakfast downstairs before leaving, and I found my way to the Camino again, grateful to have looked for the arrows the evening before. I had to follow the road for a while to leave Monforte de Lemos, and it was a day full of road-walking that kept passing random settlements of houses but no cafeterías, bars or shops or any kind of services. It was beautiful countryside though. The Camino finally left the road for a bit just to go straight up and down. Otro día del Camino ya ha llegado. Me desperté, desayuné en el bar de abajo antes de marcharme, y encontré el Camino una vez más, agradecido por haber mirado las flechas la noche anterior. Tenía que caminar por la carretera un rato largo para salir de Monforte de Lemos. Era un día lleno de caminar por la carretera que pasó por poblaciónes de casas que ni llegaron a ser “aldeas”, sin cafeterías, bares o tiendas ni ningún tipo de servicio. Pero era paisaje bonito. Por fin, el Camino dejó la carretera atrás solo para ir abajo y luego arriba con mucho pendiente.

I stopped for a rest and a snack outside the famous (San Paio de) Diomondi church and albergue—didn’t see anyone but a few dogs. The Camino went downhill to cross the Minho—and the bar that is sometimes open, sometimes not, was closed, of course, so I had a water break and prepared myself to go straight back up via a Roman road. It was steep and relentless. The scenery was beautiful, but the Camino was presenting some physical challenges. Descansé un rato y merendé algo fuera de la Iglesia San Paio de Diomondo, famoso en el Camino de Invierno (y ahora dispone de un albergue para los peregrinos). No vi a nadie fuera de unos perros. El Camino descendió para cruzar el Río Minho–y el bar que a veces está abierto y a veces cerrado, estaba cerrado, desde luego. Paré para beber agua y me preparé para subir otra vez por una vía romana. Tenía bastante pendiente y era implacable. El paisaje era precioso, pero el Camino ya era un desafío total.

I was excited to arrive to Chantada, population 8083, after 30 kilometres without a café con leche or anything, but being Wednesday, most everything was closed. The bar that was open made me albóndigas (meatballs) and chips/fries, which was great. I wish I had written down their name to recommend them as they were extremely welcoming. Me alegró llegar a Chantada, población 8083, después de 30 kilómetros sin ni un café con leche ni nada. Pero era miércoles, y casi todo en el pueblo estaba cerrado. Encontré un bar abierto y me hicieron unas albóndigas muy ricas con patatas. Estaba muy rico. Ojala haber escrito el nombre para recomendaroslo porque era muy hospitalero.

The hotel wifi was iffy once again though, but it was a nice hotel. I walked around town a bit, did some laundry, and went to a bar with decent wifi to plan the next day. I was feeling a bit off, worried about insolación, so I went to bed early once again to be ready for the next day. Una vez más, el wifi no iba bien, pero el hotel era bonito. Caminé por el pueblo, lavé la ropa, y fui a un bar con wifi para planificar el próximo día. No me encontré muy bien y me preocupé de tener insolación, y por eso, fui a la cama pronto para estar listo para el próximo día.

A continuación…


7 thoughts on “Camino de Santiago (Camino de Invierno). Etapa 6. Monforte de Lemos-Chantada. 30.4 Km.

  1. Although it was steep and required care, I found the descent into Belesar to be very pleasant, with peeks to the view of the river. I guess you didn’t encounter some loose barking dogs near the top of the ascent after crossing the Minho at Belesar. But as a dog fan, you would probably have been fine!

    Liked by 1 person

    • Oh, I loved the descent into Belesar (the other way…well, now that I lived to tell the tale, it was lovely. Just very steep, and it was 30C that day too (in October…)).

      I didn’t see any dogs around the top of the ascent. There were a few near Diomondi though. I never came across the mean dogs I had heard about though along the Invierno…consider myself lucky there.


    • Oh, I meant to ask you! I’m trying to decide between bits and pieces of the Catalán and Vasco OR the Mozárabe between Almería and Córdoba for the end of April beginning of May. Any thoughts? I read about your Caminos on the Vasco and Mozárabe and want to do both, of course…hope all is well and thanks for reading!

      Liked by 1 person

      • I haven’t done the Catalán so can’t comment on it. The Vasco and Mozárabe are so different – depends if you want the northern Basque experience, or the southern badlands and Moorish mood! Both are worth doing. On the Mozárabe, the first several days have a lot of tedious dry river bed but also some dramatic but harsh scenery after Alboloduy. For me, the Mozárabe seemed to require more inner fortitude than the Vasco, but was more exotic.

        Liked by 1 person

      • Both are on my bucket list, of course…but the Mozárabe is calling me more. I’m just a bit worried of it being too “crowded” (it won’t be as bad as one of the more popular ones, but I’m really wanting to be alone with nature) and the potential for heat.

        I’ve been re-reading yours and MagwoodMe’s entries about that dry river bed…outside of that, it sounds great.

        But then the Catalan and Vasco have been on my radar for longer. The Catalán has horrible lodging options…so I would have to transport more than walk almost. So I would do the Vasco after a few days on the Catalán.

        I’m indecisive…lol.

        Liked by 1 person

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